I. Cloths > Embossed and Patterned
The first publishers' cloth bindings appeared in the nineteenth century in the book trade's search for a cheap, sturdy covering material. In earlier centuries, velvets and brocades were used as book coverings; they were more expensive than leather, however, and not very sturdy. By the eighteenth century, cloth was used only occasionally for book coverings, in special silk bindings or in amateur bindings, such as those in Robert Southey's famous "Cottonian" library, which were covered in cotton fabrics by his daughters.
In the late eighteenth century, a few publishers began to issue books in uniform bindings. The same title might be available in leather, or in paper-covered boards. The first publishers' cloth-covered books appeared in the 1820s in plain calico, with printed labels. The effect was rather drab, and attempts were made to find more interesting cloths, which were treated to be impervious to glue.
In the 1830s, ribbon-embossed cloths with elaborate floral or geometric patterns were popular, but too expensive to vie with the new machine-grained cloths that imitated leather or featured various patterns. In search of novelty, publishers used striped or other festive cloths mid-century for a few years, especially for gift books. Bindings can be roughly dated by those who know the fashions in color and grain throughout the century.
![Incidents of travel in Egypt, Arabia Petraea, and the Holy Land Incidents of travel in Egypt, Arabia Petraea, and the Holy Land](https://exhibitions.library.columbia.edu/files/thumbnails/httpwwwcolumbiaeduculweberesourcesexhibitionsgildedimages600jpggbf003600_c12c2014ea.jpg)
item 2
Stephens
Incidents of Travel in Egypt
NY: Harper, 1837
Catalog Record (CLIO)
![Divine Tragedy. Divine Tragedy.](https://exhibitions.library.columbia.edu/files/thumbnails/httpwwwcolumbiaeduculweberesourcesexhibitionsgildedimages600jpggbf006600_35efd05038.jpg)
item 5
Longfellow,
The Divine Tragedy
Boston: Osgood, 1871
Catalog Record (CLIO)
![Young Lady's Guide to the Harmonious Development of Christian Character. Young Lady's Guide to the Harmonious Development of Christian Character.](https://exhibitions.library.columbia.edu/files/thumbnails/httpwwwcolumbiaeduculweberesourcesexhibitionsgildedimages600jpggbf007600_2dda248cda.jpg)
item 6
Newcomb
Young Lady's Guide to the
Harmonious Development
of Christian Character
Boston: Phillips &
Sampson, 1846
Catalog Record (CLIO)
![Life of Major General Zachary Taylor; with Notices of the War in New Mexico, California, and in Southern Mexico; and Biographical Sketches of Officers Who Have Distinguished Themselves in the War with Mexico. Life of Major General Zachary Taylor; with Notices of the War in New Mexico, California, and in Southern Mexico; and Biographical Sketches of Officers Who Have Distinguished Themselves in the War with Mexico.](https://exhibitions.library.columbia.edu/files/thumbnails/httpwwwcolumbiaeduculweberesourcesexhibitionsgildedimages600jpggbf009600_729b072692.jpg)
item 7
Frost
Life of Major General
Zachary Taylor
New York: Appleton, 1847
Catalog Record (CLIO)
![Lays of Love and Faith. With Other Fugitive Poems. Lays of Love and Faith. With Other Fugitive Poems.](https://exhibitions.library.columbia.edu/files/thumbnails/httpwwwcolumbiaeduculweberesourcesexhibitionsgildedimages600jpggbf008600_e656910d53.jpg)
item 8
Bethune
Lays of Love and Faith
Philadelphia: Lindsay, 1847
Catalog Record (CLIO)
![Forget-Me-Not: a Token of Remembrance Forget-Me-Not: a Token of Remembrance](https://exhibitions.library.columbia.edu/files/thumbnails/httpwwwcolumbiaeduculweberesourcesexhibitionsgildedimages600jpggbf010600_85813d2464.jpg)
item 9
The Forget-Me-Not
A Token of Remembrance
by M.C.C.
Buffalo: Derby &
Hewson, 1848
Catalog Record (CLIO)
![Liberty Bell. Liberty Bell.](https://exhibitions.library.columbia.edu/files/thumbnails/httpwwwcolumbiaeduculweberesourcesexhibitionsgildedimages600jpggbf011600_2d8774afdb.jpg)
item 10
The Liberty Bell.
Vol. 9
Boston: National
Anti-Slavery Bazaar, 1839-1858
Catalog Record (CLIO)
![Voices from the Kenduskeag Voices from the Kenduskeag](https://exhibitions.library.columbia.edu/files/thumbnails/httpwwwcolumbiaeduculweberesourcesexhibitionsgildedimages600jpggbf011a600_77e14cbfa3.jpg)
item 11
Voices from the Kenduskeag
Bangor, Me: David Bugbee, 1848
Catalog Record (CLIO)